Oslo, Norway 漫步奧斯陸

by Fennah Guan 周芬娜

 

2014年的夏天,我們搭著公主號郵輪(Princess Cruises)來到神往已久的奧斯陸(Oslo),挪威的首都及第一大城。上岸那天的最高氣溫是華氏六十幾度(攝氏十八度左右),我們都覺得有點清冷,要穿夾克禦寒。卻有幾個碼頭工人打著赤膊在工作,雪白的皮膚被太陽曬得紅通通的,大概是順便在享受這難得的日光浴吧?

In summer of 2014, my husband and I travelled to Oslo during a Princess Cruises tour, a visit I had long dreamt about. Oslo is Norway’s capital and largest city. The day we went ashore, the high temperature was in the 60’s Fahrenheit (around 18° C). It felt unseasonably cool and we wore jackets to fend off the chill, but at the harbor we saw men working shirtless, a bright sun turning their pale skin lobster-red. Anything to snatch a rare sunbathing opportunity, one could only assume.

奧斯陸人口只有五十六萬人左右,可謂地廣人稀。它的面貌和我的想像相去不遠:輕巧而靈秀。 全城沿海而築,處處是秀麗峻峭的海灣,和方正莊嚴的建築物 。六個小時的自由活動,時間有限, 我們就近搭乘小渡輪去環繞奧斯陸峽灣(英語:Oslo Fjord;挪威語:Oslofjorden)一周,船程約一小時,一路上果然風光明媚,山明水秀,青山碧海間密生著深綠的針葉林,針樹林中點綴著一棟棟紅瓦白牆的小屋,都是一些有錢人的避暑別墅。

The city of Oslo comprises an extensive area but a smallish population of approximately 560,000 people. Its setting and cityscapes convey just the grace and soulful beauty I had imagined. Situated along a winding coastline interspersed with many pretty coves overhung by jagged cliffs, the city also constructed many stately, angular low-rise buildings. With only six hours to explore on our own, we yielded to time constraints and opted for a ferry ride round the Oslo Fjord (Oslofjorden in Norwegian). The hour-long ride featured many fine views. Dense swaths of evergreen forests took on a darker hue against the lighter greens of the surrounding hills and shimmering sea. Through the bristly evergreen branches were occasional glimpses of cottages decked out with white walls and carnelian roofs—the summer homes of the wealthy.

奧斯陸建城於1049年,歷史至今不到一千年,比起中國的古都西安、成都、洛陽等,算是小巫見大巫,卻也出過幾個著名的藝術家和大文豪,包括愛德華.孟克(Edvard Munch)、亨利.易卜生(Henrik Ibsen) 等。但奧斯陸峽灣美則美矣,卻令我覺得它美得太直接、太一覽無遺了,缺乏令人思考回味的空間;不像中國的長江三峽般的曲迴宛轉、柳暗花明,歷史典故俯拾皆是 。

Founded in 1049 CE, Oslo at just under a millennium in age is a mere babe compared with China’s surviving ancient capital cities, the likes of Xi-An, Cheng-Du, Lo-Yang. In terms of cultural achievements, Oslo lays claim to a number of famous artists, visual and literary, including Edvard Munch and Henik Ibsen. But, to me at least, the appeal of Oslo Fjord paled in comparison with the enchantments of the Yang-Tze River Gorges. The Fjord’s scenic beauty created a striking and memorable first impression and yet left little else for the imagination. The Gorges are different—their twists and turns draw you in and ever-changing vistas encourage you to reflect and to recall the many historical references to each particular sight through different times.

遊完奧斯陸峽灣上岸後,我們興匆匆在市中心參觀了一家著名的挪威食品特產店 (Fenaknoken)。那家店裡賣的全是各式各樣的乳酪、香腸、火腿、臘肉,掛放在店裡琳瑯滿目,單是乳酪就有上百種之多,山羊腿、鹿腿、山豬腿更是吊放得到處都是。店主紅光滿面、和氣生財,雖不太會講英文,卻拚命地比手勢推銷他的乳酪,並請我們試吃。挪威少見陽光,農產品嚴重不足,尤其是青菜、水果都須仰賴進口,物價高昂。所有的食物都很珍貴,喝不完的牛羊乳要做成乳酪,吃不完的獸肉要醃製成香腸、火腿、臘肉,物盡其用,一點也不能浪費。在漫長寒冷的嚴冬中,除了北海中盛產的鮭魚、鯖魚外,他們要靠這些肉乾果腹度日。

Having surveyed the Oslo Fjord, we ventured with eager anticipation to the city center’s Fenaknoken, a famous gourmet destination. This Norwegian gift and specialty shop offers a huge variety of cheeses and all forms of cured meats including sausage and ham. Inside the shop, sumptuous and luxurious displays are everywhere; for cheese alone there were at least a hundred different kinds. Here and there, legs of mountain goats, mutton and wild boars hung conspicuously overhead. The ruddy-faced proprietor was amiable and quick to charm. As his English was somewhat limited, he gestured energetically to recommend cheese selections and offered free samples. Norway has a short growing season and produces not nearly enough farm products for its population, and is especially short of fruits and vegetables. It mostly relies on frightfully expensive imports. All foods are precious, and nothing goes to waste. Leftover milk is turned into cheese; surplus meats cured and preserved as sausage, ham and bacon. During the long dark wintry months, cured meats are the main staple besides salmon and mackerel hauled from the North Sea.

挪威的乳酪大多以山羊奶製成,因此山羊乳酪是當地的特產之一,質地細膩,連法國人都自嘆不如。一種最傳統的叫「耶托斯特」(gjetost)的咖啡色乳酪,是最著名的挪威特產,味道甜甜的很像太妃糖,以牛乳、羊乳、乳清蛋白煉製而成,在美國也可以買得到。挪威人通常將乳酪切成薄片放在麵包上面食用,如切成方塊搭著葡萄乾來食用,也非常可口。

Cheeses made with goat milk, like many Norwegian cheeses, are a special local treat. Rich and velvety, they are admired even by the fussy French. Gjetost is such a classic, perhaps the most famous specialty cheese from Norway. It is made by boiling a combination of cow’s milk and goat’s milk, mixed with whey, until dark as coffee and sweet-tasting like caramel. Gjetost is available also in the U.S. Serve the cheese in thin slices on bread, or serve cubed with raisins. It is mouth-watering good.

接著,我們參觀了格局超現代的諾貝爾和平獎中心。瑞典發明家阿爾弗雷德.諾貝爾(Alfred Nobel)於1895年遺贈創立了諾貝爾獎, 和平獎是其中獎項之一,也是唯一在奧斯陸頒發的獎項。頒獎典禮由挪威諾貝爾委員會主持,挪威國王和王后也親自監禮, 非常隆重莊嚴。諾貝爾和平獎中心位於奧斯陸市政廳(Oslo Radhus)附近,於2005年開幕,主要介紹諾貝爾和平獎的歷史,及創辨人諾貝爾的生平事蹟,另外還展示了從1901年首屆和平獎至今得獎者的個人功績和相關史料,包括南非的曼德拉、美國的馬丁路德金博士、緬甸的翁山蘇姬, 以及中國的達賴喇嘛和劉曉波等名人。今年死於獄中的劉曉波是2010年的諾貝爾和平獎得主。他得獎時已關在北京的監獄裡,被禁止前來領獎,算是對中國人權的一大諷刺。

The Nobel Peace Center with its ultra-modern design concept was our next sightseeing stop. The eponymous awards created in 1895 as a bequest of Danish Inventor Alfred Nobel include a Peace Prize, the only award whose presentation takes place in Oslo. Very much a grand affair, the Oslo award ceremony is officiated by the Norwegian Nobel Committee in the presence of Norway’s King and Queen. The Center, located near Oslo’s Radhus or City Hall and first opened in 2005, houses exhibits on the history of the Peace Prize and life of founder Alfred Nobel. In addition, there are displays that celebrate the achievements, with relevant historical documents and effects, of each and every individual prizewinner since the award’s inception in 1901. This includes, to name just a few, Nelson Mandela of South Africa, Dr. Martin Luther King of the U.S., Aung San Suu Kyi of Burma, and China’s Dalai Lama and Liu Xiao-bo. 2010 Prize winner Liu passed away this year while still a prisoner of the state. Already imprisoned in Beijing in 2010, Liu was denied permission to attend the award ceremony. This was inevitably seen as rich in irony, aptly reflecting the state of China’s human rights practices.

逛完諾貝爾和平獎中心,我們發現那裡正有一個露天小餐館,就在那裡享用了午餐。我們只點了一份雞肉漢堡、一份羊乳酪沙拉、一杯挪威啤酒,滋味差強人意,但兩個人都沒吃飽,帳單卻高達五十美元。怪不得在奧斯陸很少看到胖子,大概是食物稀少珍貴,每個人只好被迫節食的緣故。吃完午餐後,我們只剩一個小時的時間,便決定去參觀附近著名的的奧斯陸市議會,諾貝爾和平獎每年都在這裡頒發。它內部的會議廳寬廣氣派,四面牆上描繪著七彩繽紛的壁畫,給人的感覺比諾貝爾和平獎中心要溫馨氣派得多。

We toured the Nobel Peace Center, and later found an outdoor café nearby for lunch. Our lunch consisted of a chicken burger, green salad with goat cheese, and a single beer. The food wasn’t bad, but it cost a whopping $50 U.S. and when finished we were still hungry. In Oslo we rarely saw people who would be considered overweight. My guess is that people here skimp on food bowing to its scarcity and high cost. After lunch there was only one free hour left. We decided to visit Oslo Radhus, which hosts the annual Peace Prize award ceremony. The ceremonial hall was spacious and physically imposing, its walls decorated with colorful and exuberant murals. In comparison, the Nobel Peace Center seems abstracted and far less impressive.

看完市議會後,我們已經筋疲力竭,集合時間也快到了,只好在悵惘不甘中和奧斯陸揮手道別。希望下回有機會再來挪威自助旅遊,自己租一部車暢遊壯麗的挪威大地,看看世界最長的松恩峽灣,領略一下挪威更迷人的風采!

Our visit to Oslo Radhus left us quite fatigued, and it was time to head back to the cruise ship. With a sense of loss and fond reluctance, we bade farewell to Oslo. Already we dreamed of plans to return. Next time, we shall rent a car and drive ourselves around the majestic Norway countryside to explore Songnefjorden, the King of the Fjords. All the better to take in the country’s striking beauty.

 

*原文刊登於sius1.blogspot.com,經作者同意,由本雜誌局部轉載, 譯成英文發表。

*Selections from an article that first appeared in sius1.blogspot.com. Translated and republished with permission by the author.

 

Translated by Wen Si-ding 溫思定 譯